Day 18 – to Hornillos del Camino

108 km
After a short ride I arrived in the old town of Santa Dominga de la Calzada and gathered the first stamp for today. Then I took the bicycle route far from the National street N120 that now also had all traffic of the previous parallel motorway. This bicycle route is sparsely signed out as ‘St Jacob’,  continuation of the route from Maastricht. On OSM the route is labeled as EV3. The landscape is nice and after the village Herramélluri the cycle route leads through the valley of the Rio Tirón. In the north rim I could see some caves and in the village Cerezo there is a roman road and some ruins visible. From Belorado until Tosantos I used the national street, because I wasn’t sure if the pedestrians route was good for bicycles. Then the EV3 moved away to the north and I had a nice climb to over 900 m. In a little town Villalmondar I had my lunch. Then again a climb over nice roads to 1000 m to the monastery San Juan de Ortega. Some kilometers later the EV3 and the N120 joined until the town Burgos.
On the way out I decided for the cycle track on the pedestrians Camino and for the first time I did not pitch my tent but went to an albergue.
Paul

Day 17 – to Santa Domingo de la Calzada

95 km
After the thunderstorm in the night the tent was astonishing dry.
In the nice village Los Arcos I became the first stamp for today. Because the church was closed, I asked at the Albergue near the casa de cultura, that had some interesting sculptures on the garden.
The twin villages Sansol and Torres del Rio were less interesting and also there, the churches were closed.
As the next town Viana was visible, I waned to take a picture and rode the bike into a small way. Ar that time the bicycle chain  run off the gear week and was completely stuck. No way to move it. I had to remove the trailer and remove all bags so I could turn the bike. I detected that the two moving frame parts of the fully had clamped the chain. After I put my full weight on the frame I was able to move the chain partly. Finally I was able to free the chain completely, but the complete procedure took about half an hour. And one shackle is probably not fine anymore. After I mounted all bags and the trailer I continued to Viana, that is a very nice pilgrims town and the church was open, so I  got another stamp.
I lunched near the historical town walls with a view to the Ebro valley.
The cycle path into Logroño was ugly: A big road through industrial areas. After crossing the river Ebro I entered the old city. A nice spot was the Plaza del Mercado with the Concatedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda. The front was in the shadow and a big van was parking near the church, so not very nice for photos. The way out of Logroño was better than the entrance: The Camino was allowed for bicycles and lead through a park area to lake and further through Rioja vineyards. In order to avoid the track just parallel to the highway, I choose the route via Sotés and Ventosa. Just after Ventosa the pilgrims track seemed to be suitable for bicycles, but somewhere in the middle I had to dismount and tear the bike and luggage through a rough part. In Najera I bought food in the Simply market, because thus was the last opportunity before the planned camping in 20 km.
Najera is walled by red rocks in the west. The town itself was less interesting.
The last kilometers to the camping took longer then expected, because nearly the complete distance the street was ascending.
As I arrived on the camping it was the same style camping as last night, just bigger and worse. 95% of the area is tightly filled with holiday containers and people are entertained by loud music and public gymnastics. I could pitch my tent on empty lots and actually the bottom was nearly as hard as concrete. A friendly Spanish man saw my  problem and gave me a stone that could be used as an hammer. The prospectus of the camping tells something like ‘in the middle of nature’, but that must be a joke. So using a tent for overnighting on the Camino is not a good  idea until now.
Paul

Day 16 – to Iratxe

76 km
My tent was soaked in the morning, though it did not rain. I did not want to wait until the not yet shining sun would have dried up it.
In Pamplona I rode a nice inclining street to the center and there were some nice views to the cathedral and the old town. The first stamp for my credential I received in the office of the Vicaria General. In the Cathedral some hundred meters further a service was going on, so I could see only a glimpse of the interior.
In the town I followed the route for the pedestrians and there again were many pilgrims. The street is full of pilgrim’s shops, so if you would start the Camino in Pamplona, you could arrive without luggage.
I passed the Parque de la Taconera and used the pedestrians route to leave the town. This avoids cycling on a highways emergency track, though the cycle path was immediately parallel to the highway. At the last suburb a cycle route called EV3 started on a normal road, but a small link was missing and I had to cycle through grass and an unpaved way. It would be nice, if that could be improved.
The next village Astrain was not very spectacular but the ascend to the Perdón pass (700 m) started here.
In Obanos I had my lunch near the church an received the next stamp.
In the next village Puente la Reina a further James route joints. I left the village via the medieval arches bridge.
The next major town was Estella. Some festival was going on there, because all men were dressed in white and red.
I pitched my tent on a fully overbooked 1a camping, but there was an unmarked part, good enough for my tent. It was the last camping for the next 50 km, so it was the best option.
After dinner I rode a part of the unpaved Camino and had a free pint of wine from the Fuente del Vino.That is just near the Monastery de Santa Maria la Real de Irache.
The day ended with thunder and lighting and heavy rain.
Paul