Day 28 – to Castiellu de Llue

105 km
The night was dry, but at 7:00 AM there was a  rain shower, so I had breakfast in the tent and  packed the bicycle wearing sin clothes. But at start the shower was gone, so I could cycle in the normal outfit.
The first river to cross was the Rio Nalòn. On both side of the bridge some fisherman had made constructions for fishing. To  couple of houses called Samartin there was the first steep climb. I entered Avilés in a quarter called Salinas with high apartment houses. I saw that shops were open though today was a holiday – Maria Assumption.
The Camino del Norte climbed an hill with very small terraced houses. From the highest point there was a view to the ocean. Then the Camino lead to the historical center to the Iglesia de San Nicolás. It has a beautiful inner court. This is the good side of Avilés, the bad is the polluting industry. It is a little Ruhrgebiet with all iron melting ovens in action. Big smoke clouds break out of the chimneys and elsewhere out of the buildings, high flames to bur n down evaporated gases. I was happy, to leave this part of the town behind me. Through the hills the Camino headed for Candas. At the coast the waves were white and breaking on the rocky beach. In the following valley of the Rio Aboño one mountain was filled with industry. It looked like a mine. Then the track moves to the major town Gijon. Along the Camino they built a cycle path nearly through the complete town. Just a small part in the historical center ids shared with pedestrians. The playa the San Lorenzo was full of high waves. Only in the edges was some beach. Then the Camino leaves the town along a creek. In some distance I saw a large church, Iglesia de la Universidad Laboral. The source of the creek is under a church. The cycle track now became very steep. I do not know the percentage, but I had to use the full width of the street and pay attention if other traffic was coming. A small truck had also to shift down in the first gear. At least are such steep parts very time consuming.
After a junction with a larger road, the inclination was fine again and at 270 m (coming from sea level) it went down again to Rion. Then again up to 450 m to the Alto de la Cruz. This time the track ascended down to the coastline again in Villaviciosa. Because it was already rather late, I did not see much of the town, just the iglesia and the Ayuntamiento. to the camping near the Alto de Buenos Aires it went up to 120 m.
After the wet morning, the weather became sunny during the day and was much better than expected based on the forecast.
Paul

Day 27 – to Cudillero

109 km
Today it would rain according the forecast. And it did, but the rain was that light and short, so I didn’t need my rain clothes.
In the first part I barely saw the ocean, because the track was on some distance to the coast. There were a lot of valleys to be crossed. That means every time 60 to 120 m downhill and then regain the height.
Thee were some nice villages on the track and though they are on a Camino, the churches are not built for many pilgrims.
The first interesting village was Lluarcal, where people celebrated a kind of carnival in the harbour. The second highlight was Cudillero that could be in Cinque Terre, Italy.
I was today in multiple San Marina’s and Villemare’s. Also in Santiago ( just a couple of houses).
In this region there are a lot of quadratic storage sheds, built on horizontal flat stones, to prevent mice and rats to have access to the stored food. A similar way of protection Is in use in Switzerland.
Paul

Day 26 – to Figueiras

106 km
The weather today was the reason, why this part of Spain is green and the old church towers are full of moose. About 4:00 AM there was a heavy rain. And at wakeup time there was still rain. I first had breakfast, but that didn’t improve the weather, so I packed all stuff and was careful to keep the dry parts dry. I started cycling and still the rain was heavy. The cycle track run through small villages again. In this area the meadows are enclosed by vertical flat stones. The churches were less impressive as yesterday, but I nigh have overseen details between the water drops on my glasses. In Vilalba was heavy rain again. I must have passed a castle, but I didn’t notice it.
At the Alto da Xesta the highest point today, The rain stopped and I had a short lunch break with a view to rotating windmills.
The bicycle track now runs exactly on the Camino through a green valley, that could have been in the Alps. Pilgrims from the normal direction had to climb this part. The main village in this valley is Mondoñedo with a cathedral, monastery and a bunch of albergues. In one of them a German woman was complaining about the dirt in the kitchen.
The cathedral was closed and I asked for a stamp in a café
Next village Villanova had again a large church and a monastery. The Camino did not come straight from the coast, but runs through a hill chain full of eucalyptus forests. In Ribadeo it finally is ath the Atlantic coast. Just some earlier I had a view to Castrapol in the bay of the Rio de Ribadeo.
Due to thick clouds it was rather dark and no sunset over water.
Paul