Day 25 – from Santiago de Compostela to Guitriz

101 km
In Santiago de Compostela I had two options: 1) Stay there some more days and return with other transport (flight, train) and send the bike with one of the transportation companies.
2) Return by bike to the Provence, France.
I choose option 2.
For my return journey I already planned to use another Camino: Camino del Norte, that basically follows the northern coastline, but I  cycle it in the reversed direction.
The first 40 kilometers are the same as the Camino Frances. I started one hour later than normal, because I did not hear the alarm of my watch and it was rather dark due to clouds. A lot of pilgrims were walking and some less cycling to Santiago. I again saw some known cyclists: A couple that I  had seen on the pass road to Roncesvalles.
At lunchtime I was in Arzua, where both Caminos join. I had a short chat with three girls. They had walked the coastal Camino and enjoyed it, because of the views to the ocean and the route is not crowded. But the also complained about the full albergues, so they used a tent to sleep.
The first good thing was on the northern Camino: Small and good roads. There is a mixture of green famland, eucalyptus forests and in higher areas pine trees. Both tree types spread a nice odor if the sun is shining on their leaves and needles. By the way: The sun broke through the clouds around noon, but later disappeared for two hours to make place for a decent rain shower.
In Sobrado de Los Monjes was a big monastery. Some pilgrims were waiting there near the closed porters house to gather a bed for the night.
The Camino reached a height of about 700 meters and then went down to about 450 meters. In this area there were a lot of small and old villages with churches and flat bell towers with one to three bronze bells.
I already had a camping as day target, but one auberge had a beautiful environment. I asked, but it was full.
So I cycled to the camping and pitched my tent there.
Paul

Day 24 – in Santiago de Compostela

No cycle kilometers
I walked the Camino from the camping to the cathedral to visit the pilgrims service that starts at noon. I wanted to enter the catedral through the main entrance but that was closed for restauration works. Under the staircase is also en entrance, but only for the museum. Then I asked a souvenir seller and he explained, I had to use the south side entrance. I entered the cathedral just in time and found a place on the opposite part. There were a lit of people / pilgrims in. The service was in Spanish and partly in Italian because there was a large pilgrims group from Italy. At the the end of the service red dressed persons came to the altar. They were the swingers of the scent bowl that is attached to a long rope in the top of the cathedral. After the fee in the bowl burnt, the red persons started to swing the bowl at high speed through the whole church and it spread the scent smoke. This probably is unique in the world.
After the service I looked around on the cathedral, but did not join the long que, to touch the St James statue on the high altar.
Further I did some sightseeing and went to the Alameda park. From there is a nice view to the cathedral if the south tower would not be scaffolded.
On the place on front of the cathedral I had seen some Dutch people I knew from the Camino and I saw them again on the camping. Also the Belgian truck driver arrived  today.
In the late afternoon I went to the chamber of the low lands, that is near the pilgrims office and is run by the Nederlandse genootschap van St Jacob. I had a chat with the people there, and just a coincidence they had lived in de Bilt, the village were I grew up.
Paul

Day 23 – to Santiago de Compostela (full report)

90 km today – that makes 2305 km in total and a daily average of 100 km
In the morning it was cool again, though Airexe is on 620 m height. The Italian team had breakfast as I left.  A next valley was filled  with fog. The Camino went partly through  and there was a big difference in temperature to the higher area. After 5 km’s the cyclists had to use the route national again. The first village Palas de Rei has a nicer name then deserved. I tried to find a religious building for the stamp in my credential, but I had no success, so I  cycled further on the high traffic  route that was the nearest to the pedestrians Camino. Why didn’t I ride on that Camino? Two reasons: The path is sometimes small and I did not want  to slalom between th pedestrians  and a the second: Sometimes the path has a bad surface when it ascends and I feared to get trapped in am impassable part. In the following bigger village I  tried to get a stamp again. The church was open, but no stamp. I asked in the council office and they sent me to the next pub, so I  have a red pub stamp in the credential. Now I wad free to choose some alternative tracks that didn’t use the route national. It might be one or two kilometers longer, but cycling without trucks and high traffic make more fun. In Arzúa the alternative route ended. From a distance I already observed, tht there were a lot of tractors on the route national. It was. A protest against the EU politics for farmers. My luck was, that the tractors blocked the traffic to the east, so they did not hinder the cyclist pilgrims. I followed a further alternative cycle route later. After it returned to the route national I gathered the second stamp ay an auberge municipal. I ws ready to enter Santiago now. Near the airport the route national became a motorway and cyclists were directed to the pedestrians Camino. From now on I followed the pedestrians track and paused a a monument fom Pope John Paul II and got the first stamp in a religious building today.. Now I  entered the town and after the obligatory picture at the city entrance I continued to the Cathedral. At that time the Italian team also arrived and together we searched to the Cathedral. There was a staircase to bridge but not to bad because it was downhill. At the front of the cathedral we made pictures  and then searched the way to the pilgrims office to receive the confirmation. There was a long queue of pedestrian and cyclists pilgrims and some people I had seen on earlier days.
With the confirmation in my hands and saying goodbye to the Italian team, I started the last kilometers to the camping and after pitching my tent, I went to an enormous Carrefour, just near the camping to buy fruit, salad, wine and beer.
Paul