Day 20 – to Santa Colomba de Somoza

130 km
Most of the bicycle track from Sahagún to León is over quiet roads. There were some small villages on this part. None of the churches was open to collect a stamp for the credential. Though I am not the fastest cyclist, due to the full equipment I have on the bike & trailer, some cyclist’s I had seen before, e.g. A young couple that I had seen on the pass road to Roncesvalles was in one of those villages.
Just before León the cycle track was on a busy road and I did not notice, that the last part of the pedestrian pilgrims track was meant as a bicycle route as well. Leon has a nice old city center and a lot of tourists an pilgrims were there. I asked in an open church for a stamp, but they sent me to the albergue around the corner. I had to queue, because many pilgrims already wanted to book a bed for  the night. Among them was one guy from Freiburg near Leipzig. He had to book for a second night, because after a walk of 52 km’s, his feet were wounded.
The cathedral of Leon was beautiful at least from the outside, because in the big towns I think it is risky to leave a packed bike outside for an hour.
In a small park I had my lunch, but later I saw, that there was a nicer place near the convento de San Marcos.
The way out of León started on the busy N120 again. I didn’t  want to take the risk of an unpaved footpath, so I used a quiet alternative route via Montejos del Camino via a high plateau to the west and then followed the river Órbigo until I joined the pilgrims track again at Hospital de Orbigo. In that town is an impressive historical bridge, the Puente de Orbigo. On a steep part to the N120 the bicycle chain jumped again from the blade and was squeezed again between suspension frame an blades. after I freed the chain it was possible to cycle, but the chain changed the blade unexpectedly.
I continued to  Astorga a real nice town with an huge cathedral. Near the Cathedral the is another church designed by Gaudi.
An English speaking cyclist asked me about my experiences with the extrawheel trailer and he knew the bike shop I town. After I collected my 2nd stamp in the museum of the cathedral I went to the bike shop. In my three words of Spanish I explained, I  would like to have the chain replaced. No problem an after 40 minutes I could leave the shop with a working chain.
My target camping for the night was some 30 km’s further – but uphill and against the night wind. This is a nice small camping,owned by a tall, hanseatic German.
Paul

Day 19 – to Sahagun

112 km
The night in the multi bed room was not very quiet, because some pilgrims wanted to avoid the heat of the day.
I started some earlier, because I did not need to pack the tent. The track continued until Hontanas on the unpaved way, but there were no problems, just some descends I had to slow down, due to loose pebbles.
In the next village Castrojeriz I coul see the remains of a castle on an hill. I tried to look inside of one of the churches, but they were all closed. The roads I used were quiet and the height of the landscape varied between 750 m and 850 m. In the feat part of the day there was nearly no wind and none of the windmills generated electricity. That changed in de afternoon with a decent wind from the west.
In Boadillo del Camino a bus of Belgian tourists stopped. The reason as a beautiful pillar near the church, the Rollo Gótico.
The Santa Maria church was open and had a rich interior. And I collected my first stamp for today. some kilometers further was Fromista. At the the entrance was an old series of locks in the Canal de Castilla. It is not in use for nautical traffic anymore, but still nice to sea.
In an overfilled mini supermarket I bought some food for my lunch, that I enjoyed with a view to the Santa Maria del Castillo.
Short after Carrion de Los Condes I opted for the pedestrian’s Camino to avoid a larger street. After some kilometers it was unpaved and it used an old Roman road. Also the West wind started to blow now and the windmills at the horizon were rotating.
The pilgrims traffic on the Camino changed at noon. In the morning I saw high numbers of walking and cycling persons.  BTW pilgrims in history used to be male and female pilgrims were an exception. Today I guess, 30% is female.
I also had a chat with a cycling Belgian truck driver from Brugge. He started in his home town the first of July and wants to return via Italy, so he will make some 4000 km in 3 months.
This evening I am on a camping again, but I asked very critically if this camping was suitable for tents. And really this is the first one with green grass and I could pitch the tent without hammer or stones.
Though the sun was shining all day it is not too hot for cycling, but I had to consume liters of water.
Paul