Day 26 – to Figueiras

106 km
The weather today was the reason, why this part of Spain is green and the old church towers are full of moose. About 4:00 AM there was a heavy rain. And at wakeup time there was still rain. I first had breakfast, but that didn’t improve the weather, so I packed all stuff and was careful to keep the dry parts dry. I started cycling and still the rain was heavy. The cycle track run through small villages again. In this area the meadows are enclosed by vertical flat stones. The churches were less impressive as yesterday, but I nigh have overseen details between the water drops on my glasses. In Vilalba was heavy rain again. I must have passed a castle, but I didn’t notice it.
At the Alto da Xesta the highest point today, The rain stopped and I had a short lunch break with a view to rotating windmills.
The bicycle track now runs exactly on the Camino through a green valley, that could have been in the Alps. Pilgrims from the normal direction had to climb this part. The main village in this valley is Mondoñedo with a cathedral, monastery and a bunch of albergues. In one of them a German woman was complaining about the dirt in the kitchen.
The cathedral was closed and I asked for a stamp in a café
Next village Villanova had again a large church and a monastery. The Camino did not come straight from the coast, but runs through a hill chain full of eucalyptus forests. In Ribadeo it finally is ath the Atlantic coast. Just some earlier I had a view to Castrapol in the bay of the Rio de Ribadeo.
Due to thick clouds it was rather dark and no sunset over water.
Paul

Day 25 – from Santiago de Compostela to Guitriz

101 km
In Santiago de Compostela I had two options: 1) Stay there some more days and return with other transport (flight, train) and send the bike with one of the transportation companies.
2) Return by bike to the Provence, France.
I choose option 2.
For my return journey I already planned to use another Camino: Camino del Norte, that basically follows the northern coastline, but I  cycle it in the reversed direction.
The first 40 kilometers are the same as the Camino Frances. I started one hour later than normal, because I did not hear the alarm of my watch and it was rather dark due to clouds. A lot of pilgrims were walking and some less cycling to Santiago. I again saw some known cyclists: A couple that I  had seen on the pass road to Roncesvalles.
At lunchtime I was in Arzua, where both Caminos join. I had a short chat with three girls. They had walked the coastal Camino and enjoyed it, because of the views to the ocean and the route is not crowded. But the also complained about the full albergues, so they used a tent to sleep.
The first good thing was on the northern Camino: Small and good roads. There is a mixture of green famland, eucalyptus forests and in higher areas pine trees. Both tree types spread a nice odor if the sun is shining on their leaves and needles. By the way: The sun broke through the clouds around noon, but later disappeared for two hours to make place for a decent rain shower.
In Sobrado de Los Monjes was a big monastery. Some pilgrims were waiting there near the closed porters house to gather a bed for the night.
The Camino reached a height of about 700 meters and then went down to about 450 meters. In this area there were a lot of small and old villages with churches and flat bell towers with one to three bronze bells.
I already had a camping as day target, but one auberge had a beautiful environment. I asked, but it was full.
So I cycled to the camping and pitched my tent there.
Paul

Day 24 – in Santiago de Compostela

No cycle kilometers
I walked the Camino from the camping to the cathedral to visit the pilgrims service that starts at noon. I wanted to enter the catedral through the main entrance but that was closed for restauration works. Under the staircase is also en entrance, but only for the museum. Then I asked a souvenir seller and he explained, I had to use the south side entrance. I entered the cathedral just in time and found a place on the opposite part. There were a lit of people / pilgrims in. The service was in Spanish and partly in Italian because there was a large pilgrims group from Italy. At the the end of the service red dressed persons came to the altar. They were the swingers of the scent bowl that is attached to a long rope in the top of the cathedral. After the fee in the bowl burnt, the red persons started to swing the bowl at high speed through the whole church and it spread the scent smoke. This probably is unique in the world.
After the service I looked around on the cathedral, but did not join the long que, to touch the St James statue on the high altar.
Further I did some sightseeing and went to the Alameda park. From there is a nice view to the cathedral if the south tower would not be scaffolded.
On the place on front of the cathedral I had seen some Dutch people I knew from the Camino and I saw them again on the camping. Also the Belgian truck driver arrived  today.
In the late afternoon I went to the chamber of the low lands, that is near the pilgrims office and is run by the Nederlandse genootschap van St Jacob. I had a chat with the people there, and just a coincidence they had lived in de Bilt, the village were I grew up.
Paul