Day 23 – to Santiago de Compostela (full report)

90 km today – that makes 2305 km in total and a daily average of 100 km
In the morning it was cool again, though Airexe is on 620 m height. The Italian team had breakfast as I left.  A next valley was filled  with fog. The Camino went partly through  and there was a big difference in temperature to the higher area. After 5 km’s the cyclists had to use the route national again. The first village Palas de Rei has a nicer name then deserved. I tried to find a religious building for the stamp in my credential, but I had no success, so I  cycled further on the high traffic  route that was the nearest to the pedestrians Camino. Why didn’t I ride on that Camino? Two reasons: The path is sometimes small and I did not want  to slalom between th pedestrians  and a the second: Sometimes the path has a bad surface when it ascends and I feared to get trapped in am impassable part. In the following bigger village I  tried to get a stamp again. The church was open, but no stamp. I asked in the council office and they sent me to the next pub, so I  have a red pub stamp in the credential. Now I wad free to choose some alternative tracks that didn’t use the route national. It might be one or two kilometers longer, but cycling without trucks and high traffic make more fun. In Arzúa the alternative route ended. From a distance I already observed, tht there were a lot of tractors on the route national. It was. A protest against the EU politics for farmers. My luck was, that the tractors blocked the traffic to the east, so they did not hinder the cyclist pilgrims. I followed a further alternative cycle route later. After it returned to the route national I gathered the second stamp ay an auberge municipal. I ws ready to enter Santiago now. Near the airport the route national became a motorway and cyclists were directed to the pedestrians Camino. From now on I followed the pedestrians track and paused a a monument fom Pope John Paul II and got the first stamp in a religious building today.. Now I  entered the town and after the obligatory picture at the city entrance I continued to the Cathedral. At that time the Italian team also arrived and together we searched to the Cathedral. There was a staircase to bridge but not to bad because it was downhill. At the front of the cathedral we made pictures  and then searched the way to the pilgrims office to receive the confirmation. There was a long queue of pedestrian and cyclists pilgrims and some people I had seen on earlier days.
With the confirmation in my hands and saying goodbye to the Italian team, I started the last kilometers to the camping and after pitching my tent, I went to an enormous Carrefour, just near the camping to buy fruit, salad, wine and beer.
Paul

Day 22 – to Airexe

93 km
The time I start the day is at 7:00 am. That is just before sunrise in the area I am. Because I slept at over 1000 m again, it was cold and I had breakfast in the tent.
As I left, the sun just started shining. The road was ascending further to over 1300 m and I was happy for my decision, not to cycle to the next albergue.
In a small village Liñares people were waiting for the church. I went inside and got the first stamp for today. Then further over a 1275 pass to the highest point for today at 1335 m, the Alto do Poio. People without luggage were astonished, that I managed those passes. In this high area I had splendid views over the valleys to higher mountains in all directions.
Then there was a long and fast descend to Samos. In this village is an enormous Monastery and church with external stairs like a palace. I had my lunch near some pilgrim sculptures.
The route to Sarria was descending, but in the town itself it went uphill again. I avoided the pilgrims footpath for the way up because I expected stairs on that way, but my alternate route was also very steep. From the point I reached the footpath in the center I wanted to go to the church that I missed. A landlord of a pub saw me going into the ‘wrong’ direction, and came out of the ub to tell me. Anyway, the church was closed. Now I continued in the correct direction, passed a castle and then arrived at the Mosteiro da Madalena with a nice front and a mosaic in front of the entrance. In the albergue of the monastery I got a nice stamp in my credential.
Now the pilgrims footpath and the cycle track  were separated for a longer distance and the villages were less interesting, like Paradela.
On the bridge over an artificial lake both pilgrims routes joined again. From the bridge I had a nice view over the lake and the town with it’s church. The water level of the lake was not high and on the shores remainings of old buildings were visible.
After the pilgrims arrive at the bridge head beneath the town, they may ascend nice chairs to a small chapel. Now the cycle route started ascending again to Alto do Hospital and from there the pilgrims path for pedestrians and cyclists only. Because there are no campings here I started to look for an albergue, but they were full. In Airexe I asked if I could pitch my tent in the grass of the pilgrims picknick area – no problem. For theorice of a bed I might use the showers, bathroom etc. Instead of the bed the landlady  gave me some postcards. And I am happy to sleep in my own tent.
Three Italians I had seen from time to time since Astorga and they saw me managing a very steep street in that town, said I must be a strong man and made a group photo with me. Btw they are travelling with nearly no luggage and are accompanied by there uncle in a camper.
Paul